Choosing the right watch hands for your look
Whether you are going for a more refined look or aiming to make a big statement, there are so many different watch hands to choose from. This is not an exhaustive list by any means. However, these 15 hand sets represent a good range of available styles we can incorperate into your next Helianthus Custom Watch.
Dauphine Hands
Dauphine hands are characterized by their sharp, faceted, triangular shape that often tapers to a fine point. They reflect light elegantly due to their polished surfaces and are a staple of mid-century dress watches. The Omega Constellation (1950s–1960s) is a classic example showcasing this refined hand style [1].
Leaf (Feuille) Hands
Leaf hands, or feuille in French, are delicate, curved, and tapering—evocative of a laurel or willow leaf. Their elegant, flowing shape is often found in dress watches and vintage timepieces. The Patek Philippe Calatrava frequently features refined leaf hands that complement its minimalist dial [2].
Louis XV Hands
Inspired by Rococo design, Louis XV hands are ornate and decorative, often featuring intricate curves and flourishes. They're rare in modern watches but found in heritage collections. The Breguet Classique Complications occasionally incorporates Louis XV-style hands for a regal, antique look [3].
Breguet Hands
Breguet hands are instantly recognizable by their slender shafts, open circular "pomme" tips, and classical styling. Designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century, they remain iconic. The Breguet Classique 7147 exemplifies this timeless, elegant design [3].
Sword Hands
Sword hands are straight-edged and often broad, resembling the shape of a blade. They are frequently found on military or dive watches for their legibility and bold presence. The Cartier Tank Française employs clean sword hands to balance modernity with tradition [4].
Syringe Hands
Syringe hands have a narrow shaft and a bulbous, needle-like tip that resembles a medical syringe. They were popular on pilot and military chronographs for precision and clarity. The Longines Heritage Military reissue showcases authentic syringe hands from the 1940s [5].
Baton Hands
Baton hands are simple, straight, and uniform in width, offering a clean and modern aesthetic. They are widely used in both dress and minimalist watches. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual often uses baton hands to highlight its timeless design [6].
Obelisque Hands
Obelisque hands taper dramatically from a broad base to a fine tip and are usually faceted for light play. They convey strength and elegance and are often seen in tool watches. The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 features iconic green obelisque hands with luminous inserts [7].
Mercedes Hands
Mercedes hands are named after the distinctive three-pointed star on the hour hand, resembling the Mercedes-Benz logo. Designed for legibility and luminous application, they are most associated with dive watches. The Rolex Submariner has famously used Mercedes hands since the 1950s [6].
Arrow Hands
Arrow hands feature a bold arrowhead tip and are often used for emphasis on specific time functions, like GMT or dive timing. They combine functionality with a sporty aesthetic. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT uses an arrow-tipped GMT hand for intuitive second-time-zone reading [1].
Snowflake Hands
Snowflake hands are blocky and angular, designed for visibility in extreme conditions, especially underwater. They are closely tied to Tudor and have become a brand signature. The Tudor Pelagos proudly features snowflake hands with luminous filling for superior legibility [8].
Skeleton Hands
Skeleton hands are hollowed or open-worked, allowing visibility of the dial or movement beneath. This style balances form and function, often used in high-end or avant-garde designs. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Skeleton merges technical complexity with bold aesthetics [9].
Racing Stripe Hands
Often found on chronograph seconds hands, racing stripe designs include a painted or colored stripe for easy visibility during timing events. These hands are rooted in motorsport tradition. The TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 features a racing-inspired chronograph hand with bold color contrasts [10].
Unique / Artistic Hands
Some brands break from tradition entirely, using sculptural or thematic hands to tell a story or express design philosophy. These artistic choices often become signatures in haute horlogerie. The MB&F HM7 Aquapod, for instance, uses radial, biomorphic hands that rotate like sea creatures [11].
References
Omega Museum Archives. Omega Constellation and Seamaster Series.
Patek Philippe. Calatrava Collection Overview. www.patek.com
Breguet. Breguet Classique Series. www.breguet.com
Cartier. Tank Française Product Specifications. www.cartier.com
Longines. Heritage Military Watch Series. www.longines.com
Rolex. Submariner & Oyster Perpetual Collections. www.rolex.com
Seiko. Alpinist SARB017 Product Page (Japan Domestic Market).
Tudor. Pelagos Specifications and History. www.tudorwatch.com
Audemars Piguet. Royal Oak Offshore Skeleton Details. www.audemarspiguet.com
TAG Heuer. Monaco Calibre 11 Racing Heritage. www.tagheuer.com
MB&F. Horological Machine No. 7 Aquapod. www.mbandf.com
