Watch Movements 101
A watch movement, also known as a caliber, is the internal mechanism that drives a watch’s timekeeping functions. It’s the “engine” of the timepiece, powering everything from the ticking of the hands to more complex features like chronographs or moon phases. Movements can be broadly classified into mechanical (manual or automatic) and quartz (battery-powered) categories. Each type offers unique advantages in terms of precision, craftsmanship, user experience, and design. Understanding how these movements work not only deepens your appreciation for horology but also helps you choose the right watch for your lifestyle and needs.
Automatic Movement
An automatic movement is a type of mechanical movement that winds itself using the motion of the wearer's wrist, thanks to a rotating oscillating weight (rotor) inside the case. Unlike quartz watches, automatics have a sweeping seconds hand that typically moves at 6–8 beats per second, offering a smooth glide. First patented by John Harwood in 1923 and later perfected by Rolex and other brands, automatic movements are now a hallmark of modern mechanical watches (2). Many feature exhibition casebacks to showcase the intricate mechanism.
Automatic GMT Movement
A GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) automatic movement builds on a standard automatic movement with an additional independent 24-hour hand that tracks a second time zone. These watches often feature a rotating bezel with 24-hour markings or a fixed 24-hour chapter ring. Originally developed for airline pilots and global travelers, the first iconic GMT watch was the Rolex GMT-Master, launched in 1954 for Pan Am pilots (3). Today’s automatic GMTs offer functional utility and visual complexity, appealing to frequent flyers and collectors alike.
Quartz Movement
Quartz watches are powered by a battery and regulated by a quartz crystal oscillator that vibrates at a precise frequency (32,768 Hz) when electrified. This makes them highly accurate and low-maintenance. Visually, most quartz watches can be identified by their smooth, consistent ticking of the seconds hand, typically moving once per second. The quartz movement revolutionized watchmaking in the 1970s, beginning with the Seiko Astron in 1969, which marked the start of the so-called "Quartz Crisis" that challenged traditional Swiss mechanical watchmaking (1).
Chronograph Movement
A chronograph is a watch with a built-in stopwatch function, typically operated by pushers on the case side. These watches feature additional sub-dials (often two or three) to measure seconds, minutes, and hours separately. The chronograph mechanism is mechanically complex, integrating clutch systems, column wheels, or cam-actuated levers. First introduced by Louis Moinet in 1816 and industrialized by Longines and Breitling in the 20th century (4), chronographs remain among the most technically respected and visually dynamic complications in horology.
Moon Phase Movement
Moon phase watches display the current phase of the moon through a small aperture on the dial, typically using a rotating moon disc driven by the movement. While not essential for timekeeping, the complication adds poetic charm and visual elegance. Moon phase movements often appear in dress watches or high-complication models. Originating from early astronomical clocks and marine chronometers, moon phase complications became popular in wristwatches during the 1920s and 1930s (5), offering a romantic nod to traditional watchmaking.
Manual-Winding Movement
A manual or hand-wound movement is a mechanical caliber that requires the wearer to wind the crown regularly to tighten the mainspring, which stores the energy to run the watch. These watches typically have no rotor, giving them a thinner profile than automatics. The ticking seconds hand and visible gears (often shown via a skeleton or display caseback) reflect fine mechanical craftsmanship. Manual-wind watches date back to the earliest pocket watches of the 16th century and remain a favorite among purists for their tactile engagement and minimalist appeal (6).
Skeletonized Movement
A skeletonized movement is a mechanical (manual or automatic) watch movement that has been carefully cut away to expose its inner gears, wheels, and springs through the dial and/or caseback. Unlike traditional movements, the focus here is as much on visual artistry as it is on function. Craftsmen remove non-essential metal from the movement bridges and plates, often adding hand-finishing, engraving, or decoration. The result is a see-through mechanical sculpture that showcases the complexity and beauty of watchmaking in motion. Skeletonized watches trace their roots to 18th-century pocket watches and were revived in modern horology by brands like Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Corum, turning timekeeping into open-worked art (7).
Sources
Seiko Museum. "The Quartz Revolution." SeikoWatch.com, 2023. ↩
Harwood Watch Co. "History of the Automatic Watch." HarwoodWatches.com, 2021. ↩
Rolex. "The History of the GMT-Master." Rolex.com, 2024. ↩
Guinness World Records. "Oldest Chronograph." guinnessworldrecords.com, 2013. ↩
WatchTime Editors. "The Moon Phase Complication Explained." WatchTime Magazine, 2020. ↩
Dean, Richard. A Concise History of the Wristwatch. Horology Press, 2019.
Forsey, Stephen. "Skeleton Watches: Transparency in Watchmaking." Hodinkee, 2021.
