Eight Classic Watch Straps
Metal Bracelet
Metal bracelets are durable, flexible bands made of interlinked metal segments—commonly stainless steel, titanium, or precious metals. They come in several styles, including Oyster (three-link), Jubilee (five-link), and Milanese mesh. Known for their resilience and versatility, they offer a substantial feel and are often integrated into sport or luxury watches. Metal bracelets gained popularity in the early 20th century and became a standard with Rolex and Omega models by the 1950s (1).
Classic Leather Strap with Standard Buckle
A staple of dress watches, the classic leather strap features stitched or smooth leather (calfskin, alligator, etc.) and a simple pin buckle. Its refined look and soft feel make it perfect for formal wear. Historically, leather straps became widespread during World War I, when soldiers converted pocket watches into wristwatches using leather lugs (2).
Leather Strap with Butterfly Clasp
A leather strap with a butterfly clasp (or deployant clasp) offers a seamless, symmetrical closure system that “folds” the strap in two parts. This design reduces wear on the leather, enhances security, and creates a more elegant look. The butterfly clasp was popularized by luxury brands like Patek Philippe and Cartier in the mid-20th century (3), offering a more sophisticated alternative to traditional pin buckles.
NATO Strap
Originally developed by the British Ministry of Defence in 1973, the NATO strap is a one-piece nylon band that threads through spring bars, securing the watch even if one bar fails (4). Known for their durability, quick-drying properties, and military origins, NATO straps are instantly recognizable by their extra strap keeper and utilitarian look. They’ve since evolved into a popular fashion statement.
FKM Rubber Strap
FKM (fluoroelastomer) rubber straps are high-performance watch bands designed to withstand heat, chemicals, and UV exposure. Softer and more pliable than traditional rubber, FKM straps are favored for dive and sports watches. Though rubber straps date back to the 1960s, especially with dive watches like the Rolex Submariner, FKM specifically rose to prominence in luxury and tactical applications in the 2000s (5).
Leather Racing Strap
Racing straps are typically perforated leather bands with circular holes, originally designed to increase breathability during motorsports. They evoke the look of vintage driving gloves and dashboard details. This style became popular in the 1960s with chronograph watches like the Heuer Carrera and Omega Speedmaster, often worn by professional drivers (6).
Sailcloth Strap
Sailcloth straps are crafted from high-strength, woven synthetic fabric originally used for boat sails. They combine the rugged texture of canvas with water resistance and comfort, making them ideal for dive and outdoor watches. The material gained traction in the 2000s as a high-performance, non-metal alternative (7).
Canvas Strap
Canvas straps are utilitarian and rugged, often made from cotton or synthetic weave. They offer a casual, military-inspired look and are lightweight, breathable, and affordable. These straps share origins with field and military watches and echo the functionality of WWII-era webbed gear (8). Today, they’re favored for tool watches and adventure wear.
Watch Strap Style Comparison Chart
| Strap Style | Material | Key Features | Typical Use | Historical Origin |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Metal Bracelet | Stainless steel, titanium, gold | Durable, heavy, formal/sporty look, water-resistant | Everyday wear, diving, luxury | Popularized in 1950s tool & dress watches[^1] |
| Leather (Standard Buckle) | Calfskin, alligator, ostrich | Classic, simple, soft feel, dressy | Dress/formal watches | WWI soldier wrist conversions[^2] |
| Leather (Butterfly Clasp) | Same as above | Elegant closure, preserves strap, more secure fit | Luxury dress watches | Mid-20th-century haute horology[^3] |
| NATO Strap | Nylon | One-piece, durable, quick-dry, extra keeper for safety | Military/tool watches, casual | British MoD spec in 1973[^4] |
| FKM Rubber Strap | Fluoroelastomer | Chem/UV resistant, flexible, soft-touch | Dive, sport, tactical | 2000s rise with high-end divers[^5] |
| Leather Racing Strap | Perforated leather | Breathable, sporty look, retro motor vibe | Chronographs, racing watches | 1960s motorsports boom[^6] |
| Sailcloth Strap | Synthetic woven nylon/polyester | Water-resistant, tough texture, slightly padded | Dive, outdoor, tactical watches | 2000s innovation from marine tech[^7] |
| Canvas Strap | Cotton or synthetic canvas | Rugged, breathable, military feel | Field/military/tool watches | WWII-era military webbing[^8] |
Sources
Dowling, James, and Hess, Jeffrey. The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches. Schiffer Publishing, 2006. ↩
Konrad, Joshua. "How Trench Warfare Created the Wristwatch." Worn & Wound, 2017. ↩
Dean, Richard. A Concise History of the Wristwatch. Horology Press, 2019. ↩
Ministry of Defence (UK). "Def Stan 66-15 NATO Watch Strap Specification", 1973. ↩
Fraser, Andrew. "What Is FKM Rubber?" StrapsCo Blog, 2022. ↩
Brozek, Greg. "Racing Straps: A Throwback to Vintage Motorsports." Fratello Watches, 2019. ↩
Monochrome Watches. "Everything You Need to Know About Sailcloth Straps." Monochrome-Watches.com, 2021. ↩
Hodinkee Editors. "Tool Watches and the Legacy of the Canvas Strap." Hodinkee, 2020.
